A Vet's Perspective on Declawing
by
Dr. Paula Kislak, D.V.M.,
the dog & cat lost & found for Los Angeles County & City
Our Visiting Vet, Dr. Paula Kislak, is a graduate of the University of Florida's College of Veterinary Medicine and graduated with distinction from George Washington University with a Bachelor of Arts in Psychology and a Bachelor of Science in Zoology. She began practicing in 1984 and was owner and practitioner at the Silver Oak Veterinary Center in Sherman Oaks, California from 1987 to 1996. Her research has been published in the Journal of American Veterinary Medical Association. She was one of the primary researchers on effects of early spaying and neutering. She has rendered expert testimony on various animal related topics before the California State Senate and Assembly in Sacramento, the Los Angeles City Council and the Los Angeles Department of Recreation and Parks. We welcome her.
A Vet's Perspective On Declawing
I can not recall all the times I have been asked to advise a client whether or not to declaw their cat. The question always provokes several different reactions in me for the answer is often not a simple one. If advising them not to declaw means that the client will give up the cat, I will bite the bullet and recommend a veterinarian who will perform the procedure. The alternative of releasing the cat to an uncertain future is unacceptable.
Declawing is a procedure in which the nail and the first joint of the cat=s toe is amputated. The most routine procedure is just removing the nails from the front paws. This is not sufficient for some clients, some of whom will request the declawing of the rear paws as well. This is not necessary and I would forcefully advise against it. Declawing is a painful procedure for the cat and thus should be avoided if at all possible. The procedure and its aftermath may even negatively impact your cat=s disposition. One alternative is to train the cat to use a scratching post. Another alternative is the use of rounded nail caps called Softpaws that are glued onto the nail. And still another alternative is to make part of the grooming process the trimming of your cat=s nails. If you choose to do this by yourself, learn how to do it properly. An alternative that I do not recommend is letting your cat outdoors as the dangers inherent in doing that surpass the negatives of declawing.
If you have been frustrated by the alternatives and still feel that declawing is necessary, it is best to do it when the cat is as young as possible. The procedure and the recuperation are less painful the younger the age of the cat. After the cat has been declawed, it is vitally important that he/she be kept indoors permanently. With the removal of its claws, the cat has been rendered pretty much defenseless. Climbing trees to escape danger is now almost impossible. Extending a paw with claws extended to warn off an attack is impossible.
Cats scratch both for claw conditioning and to visually mark their territory. Knowing this, for those of you who are patient, willing to go the extra mile and to whom declawing is not an option, there are training methods to which the cat will respond. The following are a number of steps involved in training your cat to use a scratching post instead of your furniture:
Make previously scratched areas less attractive by covering them with plastic runners placed upside down so that the small teeth are facing upward. An alternative to the plastic runners are various products you can safely spray on the furniture you wish to be avoided or sprayed on paper towels or rags which are then attached to the furniture.
Place scratching post(s) in front of the now protected scratching area(s). Make available as many posts, in a variety of forms, as necessary. Since scratching is a visual territorial marking behavior, placing posts in highly visible areas may be useful (e.g. in front of windows). You may need to experiment with different materials covering the scratching posts. Cats often prefer materials with longitudinally oriented threads as opposed to carpet. Sisal rope is often very attractive to cats. Corrugated cardboard is attractive to cats and is an inexpensive scratching device sold in most pet stores.
A delicious food treat should be offered to the cat when, and only when, you see the cat use the post. The treat may be placed on or near the post making a pleasurable connection.
Catnip, to those cats who respond to it, may be rubbed on the post to add to the attraction.
After the cat is using the posts well, the posts may be very gradually reduced in number and slowly moved to more desirable locations.
Finally, the plastic deterrents on the furniture can be removed.
Punishment is seldom effective in solving scratching problems as the cat simply learns to scratch when the owner is not around. Remember: Never strike your cat or dog out of anger or to punish. Aside from abusive, it is the fastest way to losing the trust of your animal.